Thierry Stern appointed president of Patek Philippe

Thierry Stern has been appointed as president of luxury watch brand Patek Philippe, continuing the family-owned tradition of the business for the fourth generation. Stern was also named president of the board of directors.

As part of the Patek Philippe family, Stern grew up in the world of watchmaking and took a hands-on role in the watchmaking industry from 1990, gaining experience in production workshops and business management as well as working with retailers and subsidiaries in Germany and the US.

From 1997 to 1998, Stern was in charge of the Benelux market and in 1998, he was appointed head of the creation department and took part in group strategic decisions by taking over the position of vice-president.

Patek Philippe is run by a management committee currently composed of Thierry Stern, honorary president Philippe Stern and chief executive Claude Peny.

Heart Gallery in Hebdon Bridge will be hosting its fourth annual selling exhibition

Heart Gallery in Hebdon Bridge will be hosting its fourth annual selling exhibition featuring more than 80 designer-makers from the UK, including jewellery designers Alice Gow, Andrea Thorpe, Claire Troughton, Karen Morrison, Lua Lua, Lucy Palmer, Nick Hubbard, Rubie Rae and Tanya Krackowizer.

The event takes place on November 7 at Heart Gallery, The Arts Centre, 4a Market Street, Hebdon Bridge.

Pictured: Rings by Alice Gow

CMJ reports revived demand for higher-end pieces

Demand for precious jewellery, particularly D- and E-grade diamond pieces, was revived at the August meeting of buying group the Company of Master Jewellers (CMJ), which attracted a record 500 delegates to the event at Chesford Grange. At previous meetings since the recession hit, CMJ members had been focused on topping up stock and buying into fashion lines such as beads but the mood has significantly shifted.

Sales of the CMJ’s own diamond brand MasterCut rocketed 500% in the eight weeks to September 15, and the group’s 12 key diamond suppliers reported that the August buying meeting was their best in 18 months – exceeding pre-recession meetings.

CMJ chief executive Willie Hamilton said: “There was a great buzz at the meeting and buyers are now realising that they have to shop across the mix. At the beginning of the year people were so cautious but now they realise that precious jewellery has held its value.”

Quality watches from brands including Raymond Weil moved well despite fears from independent retailers that multiples will repeat the heavy festive watch discounting experienced on the high street last year.

Platinum sales were said to be “exceptional” and there was increased interest in palladium jewellery as a result of the hallmark coming into place in July. Gold, however, evoked more caution from buyers due to continuing rising prices which broke the $1,000 per oz barrier in September and could be set to rise again.

Rox invests £1m on first store outside Glasgow

Rox is investing £1m on its fourth shop, which is its biggest to date and its first outside of Glasgow. The retailer has signed for a 1,353 sq ft boutique on the ground floor of new development Union Square in Aberdeen and the store will be the city’s first fashion-forward luxury jeweller, stocking brands such as Stephen Webster and ToyWatch.

The store at Union Square, which will be the only new shopping centre to open in Scotland this year, is part of a wider plan to increase Rox’s empire. The retailer has enjoyed “significant year-on-year growth” and plans to expand, focusing on opening new stores in shopping centres.

Rox co-founder Kyron Keogh said: “Aberdeen’s economy has been resilient throughout the recession and Union Square’s strong fashion edge complements our contemporary range. The jewellery market in Aberdeen is currently dominated by very traditional jewellers so Rox will offer Aberdeen customers a completely unrivalled shopping experience.”

The shop, which will create 10 new jobs in the city, will open at the end of October in the development alongside a wealth of contemporary fashion retailers, eateries and a cinema. Azendi, which was shortlisted for Multiple Retailer of the Year at the 2009 UK Jewellery Awards, has also taken a unit at the £250m Hammerson development.

Ingersoll refocuses on UK market

After building a successful global sales network, Ingersoll is turning its attention back to the UK, which it admits it has neglected while focusing on building the brand internationally.

The UK team, headed up by chief executive Richard Tibber and general sales manger Simon Gilham, will focus on building a stronger network of stockists. Ingersoll said that it hopes to replicate the success that it has achieved in its leading market Germany, which has more than 1,000 independent retail stockists, and will target “independent high-end jewellers and small multiples”.

Ingersoll said that at this time it has no plans to open any independent Ingersoll shops.

To support the UK push, the brand will run ad campaigns in the run up to Christmas in leading consumer publications including GQ and Vogue. It has also appointed specialist watch and jewellery PR company TTH Media and will host a UK “relaunch event” in October or November.

A spokesperson for Ingersoll said: “Ingersoll has been holding back from the UK market over the past few years whilst the brand has been widely marketed throughout the world. Now that the brand has enjoyed huge success in so many territories we are refocusing on the UK.”

Clogau Gold to raise international profile by investing in travel retail

Clogau Gold is hoping to establish itself as an internationally recognised brand by targeting the travel retail sector. The Welsh gold brand has appointed David Butler as head of global sales to drive the initiative forward and will also take its first independent stand at duty free and travel retail exhibition TFWA at Cannes in October.

Clogau Gold is already stocked onboard planes and cruise ships, including large carriers British Airways, Virgin and Air Canada, but the sector represents just 4% of overall sales. Butler, who was part of a team responsible for establishing Hot Diamond’s travel retail business that launched five years ago, said he hopes to increase this percentage but expects the process to be a long-term initiative not a quick fix.

Butler said: “It’s a difficult market to break in to. I don’t see it happening over night; I see it more as a three-year project to develop the brand internationally.”

In addition to increasing its presence onboard aircraft and ships, Butler is hoping to make alliances with airport retailers.

Travel retail operators tend to demand high margins from brands, up to 70%, so there are no quick financial gains to be made in the sector. However, Butler believes that it is an important profile-raising step that will help it breaking into new international markets, such as the US.

Zeon to manufacture and distribute Braun watches

Ingersoll manufacturer Zeon, a wholly owned subsidiary of Herald Group, the largest manufacturer and distributor of watches and clocks in the UK, has formed an exclusive worldwide partnership with electricals brand Braun to develop and produce clocks and watches under the Braun brand. The first fruits of the collaboration will debut at Swiss trade show BaselWorld in March.

Braun said that its decision to partner with Zeon would strengthen its watch and clock division, which it believes will benefit from Zeon’s specialised market knowledge.

Zeon managing director Richard Tibber said: “We will be developing a full range of Braun clocks and watches, and will be reintroducing some of the past designs which today have become collectables, as well as new, exciting and innovative products.”

Zeon was one of the first companies to be involved in licensing fashion and consumer brands for watches and clocks. Its diverse portfolio of brands includes Ingersoll, Bench, Fiorucci and Superdry. Children’s licensed watch collections include Ben 10, Fame, Hello Kitty, and High School Musical. Zeon is also a major supplier of OEM watches and clocks.

Karen Morrison plans London pop-up shop in November

Jewellery designer Karen Morrison will be hosting a pop-up shop in London’s stylish Clerkenwell in November, selling handmade precious and semi-precious gemstone jewellery. Collections will be on display at The Corner Shop, Craft Central, 21 Clerkenwell Green from November 10 to November 15.

Morrison sells her jewellery in many outlets throughout the UK as well as on her website, karenmorrisonjewellery.co.uk. She has featured in magazines such as Vogue, Elle, Grazia and ES Magazine and was this year nominated in the Scottish Fashion Awards for Jewellery Designer of the year.