TW Steel teams up with Australian gold medallist

Oversize watch brand TW Steel has signed up Australian five-time Olympic gold medallist and 11-time World Champion in freestyle swimming Ian Thorpe as its latest brand ambassador. Thorpe is the Dutch brand’s first Australian ambassador since it opened a subsidiary office n Sydney in June.

Thorpe joined TW Steel chief executive and owner Jordy Cobelens at Sydney’s Nader Jewellers’ annual VIP night.

TW Steel is distributed in the UK by Swico and stocked at retailers including House of Fraser, Ernest Jones and Goldsmiths.

Pictured: Ian Thorpe and Jordy Cobelens show off their TW Steel timepieces

Kate Moss buys cuff right off the wrist of Mark Ronson’s jewellery designer mum

It seems that when Kate Moss sees some jewellery she wants, she gets it. Moss is reported to have spotted a black onyx, black diamond, solid gold and silver cuff on the arm of Ann Dexter-Jones – mother of music producer Mark Ronson and an aspiring jewellery designer – while at a wedding and got her friend Topshop boss Sir Philip Green to buy it for her there and then. Moss then gave Dexter-Jones the Chanel bracelet that she was wearing so she would have to bear a bare wrist at the festivities.

Pictured: Kate Moss wearing Fire of London by Stephen Webster

Christies prepares for bumper jewellery sales day

Christie’s will hold two sales of exceptional jewels in New York on December 10, which are expected to realise a combined amount of more than £9m. The sales will feature more than 180 pieces of jewellery from rare and important diamonds to period jewels, plus designs by brands such as Buccellati, Boucheron, Daniel Brush, Bulgari, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, David Webb, and Tiffany & Co.

The first sale will be New York Jewels, a selection of jewellery ranging from £600 to £1.2m. This will be followed by a Magnificent Jewels sale of 10 jewels from a private collector that includes the rare and important 39ct D-grade Evening Star diamond, which is expected to fetch more than £6m.

Pictured: The Evening Star diamond

Gucci joins Responsible Jewellery Council

Luxury brand Gucci, which designs a range of jewellery and watches, has joined the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), which requires all members to be audited by accredited third-party auditors to verify that they conform with the RJC’s ethical code of conduct.

Gucci president and shief executive Patrizio di Marco said: “We are extremely proud to join the Responsible Jewellery Council as we strongly belive in the role of this association. Our participation in RJC is a further step into an even more responsible path.”

The RJC now has more than 140 members, which includes brands Roberto Coin and Carrera y Carrera and retailers Beaverbrooks and the Signet Group.

Pictured: black Gucci chronograph

Swatch accused of price fixing in Australia

Swatch Group has been accused of price fixing in Australia by the brand’s former Australian general manager Mark Watson, as reported by Australian trade publication Jeweller.

Watson claims that he was dismissed from the company in November 2008 after refusing to enforce Swatch’s preferred retail prices. He is now suing the watch company in County Court in Australia for loss and damages.

The price fixing allegations are reported to affect Swatch’s premium brands including Omega, Breguet, Tiffany & Co and Tissot. Watson has accused Swatch of indulging in price fixing to maintain its exclusivity of these top-end brands.

To read the full story on Jeweller News Magazine, click here

Pictured: Omega gent's Constellation Skeleton self-winding watch

BrandAlley takes over Oxford Circus with FlashWalk

Luxury discount e-tailer BrandAlley, which sells jewellery and watch brands including Missoma and Baume & Mercier, sent six models to carry out a FlashWalk (that’s a flash catwalk) at the new diagonal crossing at London’s Oxford Circus on November 20. The models took centre stage at one of the world’s busiest shopping spots wearing nothing but body paint and jewellery from Dyrberg/Kern, which is running a flash sale of its watches at BrandAlley later this week.

Spectators, including tourists and policemen, stood with mouths agape as the nearly naked models dropped their trench coats and transformed the pedestrian crossing into an impromptu catwalk. On their fronts, the models were painted with clothing to represent key looks from this year’s global Fashion Weeks and on their backs “The sale goes on and on and on” was painted to reflect BrandAlley’s new slogan “The non-stop designer sale”.

The FlashWalk has been used to create an online viral video. You can watch the video by clicking here.

BrandAlley has also relaunched its website this week with a fresh look and increased search functions.

Watch brand Lancaster to create jewellery line

While doing a bit of freelance work, I've rediscovered Lancaster watches. I've seen this brand in the flesh a few times before but it's not one of the best known brands in the UK. However, should Santa be reading, it's certainly on my Christmas list this year.

Also, just read on its website that Lancaster is currently developing a range of jewellery and accessories - should be interesting. The brand also creates sunglasses, small leather goods, bags, cufflinks and writing implements.

Chamilia creates exclusive Marie Curie bead for Ernest Jones

High street jeweller Ernest Jones and bead brand Chamilia have teamed up with charity Marie Claire Cancer Care to create an exclusive bead in the shape of Marie Curie’s iconic daffodil (pictured). The enamel and sterling silver charm is on sale in Ernest Jones stores now and £5 from the £30 retail price of the bead will be donated to Marie Curie.

Ernest Jones, which is celebrating its 60th anniversary this year, announced plans to stock Chamilia in June and has been selling the popular bead brand online at ernestjones.co.uk and in selected stores. It also stocks Pandora beads and charms from Hot Diamonds and Truth.

US brand Chamilia opened its first UK sales and distribution office in Newcastle-upon-Tyne in May.

European sales sparkle for Tiffany

Luxury jeweller Tiffany recorded double-digit sales growth in Europe in the three months to October 31, driven in part by the opening a store in at Selfridges in Manchester. European sales rose 12% to $65m (£39.2m).

However, the retailer struggled in the US, which accounts for more than half of its total sales. Like-for-like sales dropped 10% and total sales fell 9% to $303.5m (£183.1m).

Tiffany chairman and chief executive Michael Kowalski said: "We were pleased to see that the rate of sales declines in the US lessened as the quarter progressed. At the same time, many countries in Asia-Pacific and Europe achieved considerably better-than-expected sales. These results, combined with ongoing expense restraint, contributed to earnings above our prior expectation."

In the UK, Tiffany has eight stores in London in addition to the newly opened Manchester boutique. It also has a concession in upmarket department store Brown Thomas in Dublin.

Pictured: Rings by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co with diamonds, green tourmaline, tanzanite and pink tourmaline

Giles Deacon unveils latest H Samuel collection

Giles Deacon’s latest jewellery collection for Signet-owned high street retailer H Samuel has now gone on sale. The range includes designs featuring crystals and sterling silver and locks, keys, hearts and stars feature heavily in the designs.

Deacon’s first collaboration with H Samuel in 2008 was his first eve high street jewellery collection.

At the time, Deacon described his designs by saying: “Jewellery is becoming so much more important in fashion. I think the woman who will wear the collection is fashion conscious with a sense of humour and loves to accessorise her outfits."

Retail prices range from £29.99 for a pair of crystal-studded earrings (pictured) to £69.99 for a sterling silver charm-style bracelet. The collection is on sale now at H Samuel stores.

Clogau Gold creates new heart collection

Brand Clogau Gold has launched a new heart-inspired collection called Close To My Heart. The pendant and set of earrings in the set feature lustrous ribbons of gold that have been twisted into heart shapes and have the Welsh word Cariad engraved on them, which means beloved, sweetheart or darling.

The retail prices for the Close To My Heart collection are £260 for the pendant and £149 for the drop earrings.

Lily Cole evokes otherworldly glamour with Shaun Leane’s Luna

Model of the moment Lily Cole chose jewellery designer of the moment Shaun Leane when she glammed up for the London premiere of The Imaginarium of Doctor Parnassus. Cole wore black diamond multi-drop earrings from Leane’s Luna collection.

The surreal Luna range is inspired by astronaught Neil Armstrong’s quote “it’s different but it’s pretty out here”. Also in the range is a cocktail ring with a carved centre surrounded by glistening black diamonds that evokes otherworldly glamour.

Leane was crowned Jewellery Designer of the Year at the UK Jewellery Awards 2009 in July.

Kabiri hosts Jayce Wong glow-in-the-dark exhibition

At a special launch event at the Kabiri store in Covent Garden, London last night, Jayce Wong showcased her collection of precious jewellery featuring naturally fluorescent gemstones. The range, which uses stones such as rubies and diamonds, was displayed in a blacked out room in the store, lit only with UV lights to highlight the fluorescent properties of the jewellery.

Kabiri will be hosting an exhibition of Wong’s work, entitled A New Stone Age, at the store from now until December 3.

Wong is a classically trained jeweller and gemologist and earned a Bachelor and Master Degree in Jewellery Design at London’s Central Saint Martins. Jayce Wong's opulent jewellery showcases her passion for coloured gemstones and is inspired by the how light affects each piece.

Coloured Rocks revamps website

Online retailer Coloured Rocks has launched a sleek, new-look website somewhat reminiscent of top fashion e-tailer Asos. Top-selling products on the site, which is co-owned by Gems TV founder Steve Bennett, include agate bangles retailing for £19 and its Kama charm collection retailing from £8.

Pictured: Colouredrocks.com

Recognise Alexa's skull necklace?

A friend of mine spotted a picture of Alexa Chung (ignore the becoming expression) wearing a delicate necklace with a skull motif at The Whitney Museum Gala at the Whitney Museum of American Art in New York. She’d love to know who has designed it but I’m at a loss – any ideas, please comment below!

Pictured: Alexa Chung (Picture from Contactmusic.com)

Watch sales soar in September

Sales of watches in September jumped 30.4% in the UK compared to the previous year, according to analysis conducted by GfK. However this impressive increase only equated to an uplift of 3.4% in terms of value due to a decrease in pricing over the year.

A major driver of the year-on-year sales growth was the strong performance of ladies’ watches. Ladies’ watches were, on average, responsible for 49% of all watches sold. However, this increased to 51% in September, up from 45% in September 2008.

Pricing played a key factor with the average price for a ladies watch in September being the lowest it has been during the duration of GfK’s audit to date at £41, compared to £59 in September 2008.

The number of watches sold at specialist jewellery stores fell in September by 1.8% but value increased 7.4% with average prices rising from £212 to £232.

Elsewhere, average watch prises tumbled. In department stores the average price of watches decreased from £89 to £73 and at general retailers prices slipped from £25 to £18.

Pictured: diamond watch, £46, Coloured Rocks

Thierry Stern appointed president of Patek Philippe

Thierry Stern has been appointed as president of luxury watch brand Patek Philippe, continuing the family-owned tradition of the business for the fourth generation. Stern was also named president of the board of directors.

As part of the Patek Philippe family, Stern grew up in the world of watchmaking and took a hands-on role in the watchmaking industry from 1990, gaining experience in production workshops and business management as well as working with retailers and subsidiaries in Germany and the US.

From 1997 to 1998, Stern was in charge of the Benelux market and in 1998, he was appointed head of the creation department and took part in group strategic decisions by taking over the position of vice-president.

Patek Philippe is run by a management committee currently composed of Thierry Stern, honorary president Philippe Stern and chief executive Claude Peny.

Heart Gallery in Hebdon Bridge will be hosting its fourth annual selling exhibition

Heart Gallery in Hebdon Bridge will be hosting its fourth annual selling exhibition featuring more than 80 designer-makers from the UK, including jewellery designers Alice Gow, Andrea Thorpe, Claire Troughton, Karen Morrison, Lua Lua, Lucy Palmer, Nick Hubbard, Rubie Rae and Tanya Krackowizer.

The event takes place on November 7 at Heart Gallery, The Arts Centre, 4a Market Street, Hebdon Bridge.

Pictured: Rings by Alice Gow

CMJ reports revived demand for higher-end pieces

Demand for precious jewellery, particularly D- and E-grade diamond pieces, was revived at the August meeting of buying group the Company of Master Jewellers (CMJ), which attracted a record 500 delegates to the event at Chesford Grange. At previous meetings since the recession hit, CMJ members had been focused on topping up stock and buying into fashion lines such as beads but the mood has significantly shifted.

Sales of the CMJ’s own diamond brand MasterCut rocketed 500% in the eight weeks to September 15, and the group’s 12 key diamond suppliers reported that the August buying meeting was their best in 18 months – exceeding pre-recession meetings.

CMJ chief executive Willie Hamilton said: “There was a great buzz at the meeting and buyers are now realising that they have to shop across the mix. At the beginning of the year people were so cautious but now they realise that precious jewellery has held its value.”

Quality watches from brands including Raymond Weil moved well despite fears from independent retailers that multiples will repeat the heavy festive watch discounting experienced on the high street last year.

Platinum sales were said to be “exceptional” and there was increased interest in palladium jewellery as a result of the hallmark coming into place in July. Gold, however, evoked more caution from buyers due to continuing rising prices which broke the $1,000 per oz barrier in September and could be set to rise again.

Rox invests £1m on first store outside Glasgow

Rox is investing £1m on its fourth shop, which is its biggest to date and its first outside of Glasgow. The retailer has signed for a 1,353 sq ft boutique on the ground floor of new development Union Square in Aberdeen and the store will be the city’s first fashion-forward luxury jeweller, stocking brands such as Stephen Webster and ToyWatch.

The store at Union Square, which will be the only new shopping centre to open in Scotland this year, is part of a wider plan to increase Rox’s empire. The retailer has enjoyed “significant year-on-year growth” and plans to expand, focusing on opening new stores in shopping centres.

Rox co-founder Kyron Keogh said: “Aberdeen’s economy has been resilient throughout the recession and Union Square’s strong fashion edge complements our contemporary range. The jewellery market in Aberdeen is currently dominated by very traditional jewellers so Rox will offer Aberdeen customers a completely unrivalled shopping experience.”

The shop, which will create 10 new jobs in the city, will open at the end of October in the development alongside a wealth of contemporary fashion retailers, eateries and a cinema. Azendi, which was shortlisted for Multiple Retailer of the Year at the 2009 UK Jewellery Awards, has also taken a unit at the £250m Hammerson development.

Ingersoll refocuses on UK market

After building a successful global sales network, Ingersoll is turning its attention back to the UK, which it admits it has neglected while focusing on building the brand internationally.

The UK team, headed up by chief executive Richard Tibber and general sales manger Simon Gilham, will focus on building a stronger network of stockists. Ingersoll said that it hopes to replicate the success that it has achieved in its leading market Germany, which has more than 1,000 independent retail stockists, and will target “independent high-end jewellers and small multiples”.

Ingersoll said that at this time it has no plans to open any independent Ingersoll shops.

To support the UK push, the brand will run ad campaigns in the run up to Christmas in leading consumer publications including GQ and Vogue. It has also appointed specialist watch and jewellery PR company TTH Media and will host a UK “relaunch event” in October or November.

A spokesperson for Ingersoll said: “Ingersoll has been holding back from the UK market over the past few years whilst the brand has been widely marketed throughout the world. Now that the brand has enjoyed huge success in so many territories we are refocusing on the UK.”

Clogau Gold to raise international profile by investing in travel retail

Clogau Gold is hoping to establish itself as an internationally recognised brand by targeting the travel retail sector. The Welsh gold brand has appointed David Butler as head of global sales to drive the initiative forward and will also take its first independent stand at duty free and travel retail exhibition TFWA at Cannes in October.

Clogau Gold is already stocked onboard planes and cruise ships, including large carriers British Airways, Virgin and Air Canada, but the sector represents just 4% of overall sales. Butler, who was part of a team responsible for establishing Hot Diamond’s travel retail business that launched five years ago, said he hopes to increase this percentage but expects the process to be a long-term initiative not a quick fix.

Butler said: “It’s a difficult market to break in to. I don’t see it happening over night; I see it more as a three-year project to develop the brand internationally.”

In addition to increasing its presence onboard aircraft and ships, Butler is hoping to make alliances with airport retailers.

Travel retail operators tend to demand high margins from brands, up to 70%, so there are no quick financial gains to be made in the sector. However, Butler believes that it is an important profile-raising step that will help it breaking into new international markets, such as the US.

Zeon to manufacture and distribute Braun watches

Ingersoll manufacturer Zeon, a wholly owned subsidiary of Herald Group, the largest manufacturer and distributor of watches and clocks in the UK, has formed an exclusive worldwide partnership with electricals brand Braun to develop and produce clocks and watches under the Braun brand. The first fruits of the collaboration will debut at Swiss trade show BaselWorld in March.

Braun said that its decision to partner with Zeon would strengthen its watch and clock division, which it believes will benefit from Zeon’s specialised market knowledge.

Zeon managing director Richard Tibber said: “We will be developing a full range of Braun clocks and watches, and will be reintroducing some of the past designs which today have become collectables, as well as new, exciting and innovative products.”

Zeon was one of the first companies to be involved in licensing fashion and consumer brands for watches and clocks. Its diverse portfolio of brands includes Ingersoll, Bench, Fiorucci and Superdry. Children’s licensed watch collections include Ben 10, Fame, Hello Kitty, and High School Musical. Zeon is also a major supplier of OEM watches and clocks.

Karen Morrison plans London pop-up shop in November

Jewellery designer Karen Morrison will be hosting a pop-up shop in London’s stylish Clerkenwell in November, selling handmade precious and semi-precious gemstone jewellery. Collections will be on display at The Corner Shop, Craft Central, 21 Clerkenwell Green from November 10 to November 15.

Morrison sells her jewellery in many outlets throughout the UK as well as on her website, karenmorrisonjewellery.co.uk. She has featured in magazines such as Vogue, Elle, Grazia and ES Magazine and was this year nominated in the Scottish Fashion Awards for Jewellery Designer of the year.

IJL 2009 attracts highest attendance in 53 years

International Jewellery London (IJL), which took place at the city’s Earl’s Court last week, registered the highest number of visitors in its 53-year history. As the trade show closed, the unaudited visitor number was 9,304 – a 7% increase on the previous year.

IJL event manager Syreeta Tranfield said: “The IJL team were overwhelmed with the positivity from visitors and exhibitors at IJL. 2009 has been a tough year that ended with an excellent result and we are thrilled to record the highest ever attendance figure. I spoke to so many people who had noted the upbeat attitude at the event and this is very encouraging in the current climate.”

The success of IJL, which is considered an industry barometer, has left many optimistic for Christmas trading. Sue Sinton of luxury retailer Richard Sinton Jewellers in Newcastle-upon-Tyne said: “I attended IJL this year having only missed three exhibitions since first visiting in 1976. Despite the economic gloom, there was a positive and optimistic feel throughout.”

Pictured: Dali large facet onyx studs in 18ct yellow gold by IJL exhibitor Francesca Sibylla Augusta FSA

Citizen watches at 70% off

There are a few days left to grab yourself a Citizen watch at up to 70% off from luxury discounter BrandAlley.co.uk. There’s a range of both ladies’ and men’s watches including Eco-Drive, diamond-set and chronograph models from £45. Sale ends on Sunday.

Pictured: Citizen gents Eco-Drive Calibre 9000

Danish brand Pieces to open first UK store in Cambridge

Danish jewellery and accessories brand Pieces is to open its first standalone store in the UK. The retailer, which is owned by fashion group Bestseller, has signed a 10-year lease for a 1,180 sq ft store at Grand Arcade in Cambridge.

Pictured: Simone bracelet by Pieces

Karen Morrison reveals chunky fuchsia and black A/W collection

Autumn/winter 09 jewellery collection Fuchsia Daze from Karen Morrison, who was shortlisted for the Scottish Fashion Awards in May for Jewellery/Accessory Designer of the Year, features black onyx, fuchsia dyed quarts, garnets, cream and black Swarovski crystals and freshwater pearls strung on sterling silver chains. Pieces in the collection include chunky statement necklaces, bracelets and headbands.

London-based jewellery designer Karen studied fashion design in her hometown of Glasgow before moving to the capital where she worked as a fashion model for many years. Karen then went on to study jewellery, art and design and began working with independent London retailer EC One, former De Beers creative director Reema Pachachi and jewellery designer Kate Dumbleton, among others, beofre branching out to create her own collections.

Fresh apprentices for A. Lange & Söhne

Last month, A. Lange & Söhne commenced its 2009/2010 apprenticeships. Seven school leavers – six girls and one boy – have joined the three-year programme, which is in its 13^th year.

The students initially underwent a week’s training at the Lange Watchmaking School, located in the historic family building, and then studied watchmaking theory at the external section of the Dippoldiswalde Technical College in Glashütte for Watchmaking and Precision Technology.

During their first year, young watchmakers learn the basic skills of metalworking: filing, sawing, drilling and turning. They also familiarise themselves with different materials and repair large clocks such as alarm clocks or wall clocks.

It is not until the second year of the programme that they start to repair pocket watches. In the third year, apprentices are taught how to assemble mechanical wristwatches and are shown the steps involved in creating a Lange watch.

After completing the apprenticeship scheme, the students are well equipped for a job in the watchmaking industry. Just like the graduates before them, many will form part of A. Lange & Söhne main specialists.

World Diamond Council boss on the shortcomings of the Kimberley process

The Kimberley Process is a joint governmental, industry and civil society initiative to stem the flow of conflict diamonds, but the organisation has recently come under fire for being ineffective and too lenient when dealing with non-compliant countries. World Diamond Council chairman and chief executive Eli Izhakoff answers some questions on the Kimberley Process.

What changes do you think need to be made to the Kimberley Process?

EI: “In the Kimberley Process, every resolution must be reached by consensus. When you are dealing with more than 70 countries this is nearly impossible. When the consensus is finally reached, the result is often a watered down version of the original proposal attained only after many delays. I would suggest considering the possibility of shifting from a consensus to two-thirds majority of the membership.”

In recent months the Kimberley Process’s handling the problematic situation in Zimbabwe has been severely criticised and there have been calls to suspend Zimbabwe permanently from the Kimberley Process rather than for just six months. Where does the World Diamond Council stand on this?

EI: “The World Diamond Council is fully engaged in working to address Kimberlery Process compliance matters pertaining to Zimbabwe. The circumstances in Zimbabwe are unique and require special consideration by the Kimberley Process. For one thing, the compliance issues there pertain to diamonds that are being smuggled out from only one producing region, out of a total of three, by illicit traders. In addition, these diamonds do not strictly fit the definition of conflict diamonds.”

What is the World Diamond Council doing to combat the threat to the integrity of the Kimberley Process that has arisen as result of Zimbabwe?

EI: “The World Diamond Council has called upon participant governments to fully enforce laws already in place that ban smuggling. It has additionally called upon international institutions that engage in investigations of humanitarian rights violations to address allegations of violence by the government of Zimbabwe against persons operating in the one diamond producing area that is owned by the state. Furthermore, the World Diamond Council is participating in a Kimberley Process review of allegations of non-compliance with Kimberley Process minimum standards by Zimbabwe, and will join with the relevant bodies to recommend steps for Zimbabwe to come back into compliance.”

How is the Kimberley Process dealing with ongoing diamond smuggling in countries like Brazil, the Ivory Coast, Venezuela and Guinea?

EI: “The Kimberley Process’s capacity to address issues of smuggling is only a supplement to criminal laws already in place worldwide that forbid illicit trade. The World Diamond Council continues to call upon governments to enforce these laws that make these activities criminal. Enforcement has to be stepped up, made more robust and given a higher priority worldwide. The World Diamond Council continues to work with Kimberley Process bodies addressing non-compliance in countries such as Venezuela, Lebanon, Guinea and others and engaging with them to bring them back into full compliance.”

What about claims that the Kimberley Process is dragging its feet when dealing with certain violators?

EI: “While the World Diamond Council, along with the international community, hopes that deterrent actions can be swift, there are procedural requirements built in to the Kimberley Process system to ensure fairness and due process. These procedural steps should be followed, but the WDC is working to ensure that they are fulfilled in the shortest possible time frame.”

The Kimberley Process does not have a mandate to bar diamond exports due to human rights violations and child labour. Conflict diamonds are defined as the source of income used to fund terror activity and civil war. Do you think that the Kimberley Process should revise these criteria and include human rights infringements as grounds for suspension?

EI: “This issue is on the agenda for the plenary session to be held in November in Namibia. The Kimberley Process intends to seek to ensure that infringements of human rights violations in diamond producing areas do not occur. Of course, such activity is already addressed by a number of UN conventions and by criminal laws within the countries where such acts take place.”

Next year Israel is to chair the Kimberley Process - what are the most important issues that Israel should facilitate?

EI: “Increased government oversight for traders of rough diamonds to ensure that regulations already in place are enforced is a high priority. Continued technical assistance to countries struggling with compliance must also be addressed. This would include bringing into the Kimberley Process family certain countries that are well-known centres for illicit diamond trade in regions throughout the world.

Source: The Israeli Diamond Portal

Shaun Leane prepares for Cherry Blossom consumer launch

Shaun Leane's Cherry Blossom collection will be available for sale direct to consumers through the designer's own transational e-tail site shaunleanshop.com at the end of the month.

Leane unveiled the Cherry Blossom collection in April this year at a private showing at the Metropolitan Hotel in London, rather than launching the collection in BaselWorld as he has done with new collections in previous years. There has been a trend this year for jewellery brands to shun trade shows in favour of intimate private events. Pianegonda, for example, decided not to exhibit at Vicenza earlier this year, choosing to welcome buyers to its headquarters near to the show.

Pink jewellery and watches help H Samuel raise money for cancer charity

H Samuel will raise money for cancer charity Breakthrough Breast Cancer in October by donating 10% of the sale price of 10 pink items during the month. Pink watches and jewellery in the sale include a 25th anniversery edition Guess watch, 9ct gold pink crystal stud earrings, a silver heart necklace with a pink stone and a Sekonda bracelet watch.

Lua Lua new collection swaps brights for gold and silver

Lua Lua’s new collection Solaris takes a step away from the bright, bright Perspex ditties that the brand is famous for. Instead, the more subdued, grown-up collection features gold- and silver-mirrored Perspex strung with silver or coloured thread. The reflective nature of the materials means that the collection, which features angular wing shapes as well as circles, squares and triangles on necklaces and earrings, change appearance in the light.

Lua Lua said of Solaris: “The inspiration behind this collection lies with aviation and science fiction creating elegant emblems to wear with both casual and eveningwear for every season.”

Trollbeads strengthens marketing with cohesive worldwide logo

Trollbeads, one of the biggest brand names in collectible jewellery, has created a cohesive worldwide logo for the first time. Despite the power of the Danish brand, logos had previously been designed by local distributors of the jewellery and varied country to country.

Sarah Morfoot, director of UK Trollbeads distributor Fable Trading, said: “It’s such a strong brand, it’s incredible it didn’t have a cohesive logo.”

Merchandising will still be designed by distributors to cater effectively for each market. Morfoot described the UK merchandising as “strong, striking and distinctive".

Trollbeads is also aiming to create more fashion-forward collections in the future. Morfoot said: “We want to put across a different face – hit the market where we should be hitting it.”

Star Jewellers to launch first e-tail site

Star Jewellers in London’s Hatton Garden is planning to launch its first e-tail site on September 1. The website will sell different stock to that on offer at its physical store, with a focus on coloured stones and statement jewellery.

Star Jewellers head of retail Adrian Demondes told Jewellery Zeitgeist: “We're not trying to be like everyone else and sell single solitaires at 4p. It's jewellery you wouldn't necessarily see in Hatton Garden and it's totally different to what's in our shop window."

Retail prices will range from £230 to £3,000, and shoppers can pay online using virtual payment system PayPal. Lines will include cocktail rings, design-led pendants, a limited diamond selection and jewellery from Star Jeweller's own brand Star Form.

Looking for a new customer base - why not pets?

It seems that jewelers could be missing a trick by just targeting humans. According to Petplan’s Pet Rich List 2009, there are some seriously loaded pets out there with independent spending power enough to make you wince.

In the top five are dog Gunther IV worth £224.6m, Kalu the chimpanzee worth £53m, Toby Rimes the dog (pictured here) worth £30m, Oprah Winfrey’s dogs who are set to inherit £30m and Orca whale Keiko, who racked up £22.6m for his staring role in the Free Willy trilogy.

Ever since Paris Hilton popped a sparkly tiara on pet pooch Tinkerbell, pet jewellery has been flying off the shelves of pet stores. So much so that garden and pet trade show Glee (which takes place at the Birmingham NEC from September 20 to 22) regularly dedicates a whole dog fashion show to it. I’ve attended one of these in my time, and the tension watching those dogs hover between wigging out and walking proud with their jewels makes it worth a look even if you’re not that interested in the jewellery (or the dogs).

The trend de jour, I’m told, in pet jewellery is matching sets for owners and pets. Louise Barnfather of Barnfather Designs (who will be exhibiting at IJL for the first time this year) designs precious collections of pet jewellery for brand Jari, including matching jewels for owners and pets.

The matching collections are made by hand to order and include gold and platinum collarettes, charms and cuffs featuring ethically sourced precious stones such as peridot, onyx, diamond and sapphire. Retail prices for the jewellery range from £350 for a charm to £15,000 for a collarrette.

Jari director Kim Bendzak told pet and garden news site GleeWire: "We were looking to create a premium jewellery range for pets as we recognised that there really is no service like this available in the UK at the moment. In the same way that people enjoy giving beautiful presents to their friends and family, so some pet owners want to treat their animals to a little indulgence."

Jewellers should take heed and shame shop criminals

I am in the midst of writing a retail report for Retail Jeweller magazine on crime at jewellers. Funnily enough, this was commissioned before the big heist at Graff, which has only deemed to make it even more topical.

I've heard a lot of horror stories this week, and while the general consensus is that if robbers want to break into your shop, smash cabinets and escape with all your stock, there's not a lot you can do to prevent them. The challenge is in fact catching the criminals after the fact.

I was speaking to a friend of mine at Retail Week magazine about this and she was covering a crime story about discunt retaler TJ Morris. The retailer is often targeted by shoplifters and in an attempt to get justice, TJ Morris publihes pictures of the shoplifters on its website with descriptions of the crime and which store it took place at. Above the images, it has an online form that informants can fill with information on the shoplifters and if it leads to a conviction, they can claim a reward of up to £1,000.

Pawnbroker and jewellery retailer Herbert Brown is one of the retailers that will be included in my report, and managing director Rod Mason told me that when one of its stores was robbed by armed men, they were caught after the local paper published images (see above) of the roberry on its front page.

Seems as though shaming, if not naming, criminals can lead to justice.

To read my retail report on jewellery shop crime, see the September issue of Retail Jeweller

Herbert Brown to open three stores before Christmas

Pawnbroker and jewellery retailer Herbert Brown is planning to expand its portfolio of stores in the Southwest. The chain, which currently operates 30 shops, will open three stores in the area before Christmas.

While no locations have been signed for as yet, Herbert Brown managing director Rod Mason said that the chain intends to expand to the south and west of its cutrrent locations. Its furthest south shop at present is in Chesterfield.

Mason told Jewellery Zeitgeist: "We are expanding quite fast. As we're led by second-hand jewellery, it's probably made us more reobust [in the recession], so business is steady."

Shhhh… which jeweller is faking it?

One Northern luxe jeweller sports a very nice Cartier watch, but if you take a closer look you'll discover that it's not exactly kosher. In fact, it's a knock-off he picked up in Turkey for £70. And quite proud of it he is too. What he forgot to mention, however, is that he has a real version tcked away in the safe.

Keeping it casual at Beaverbrooks

Beaverbrooks has a great reputation for treating its staff as an extended family, and for generally being a great place to work. The relaxed structure and Enriching Lives staff campaign has won them the loyalty of their staff (plus Retail Employer of the Year at this year’s UK Jewellery Awards, see picture, and The Sunday Times’ Best Company to Work For) and it really is refreshing to witness.

I was reminded of this when I emailed one of the directors at Beaverbrooks this morning. He is off sunning himself, as I found out from his out of office reply, which came complete with two kisses at the bottom. Whenever I email any of the top-level staff at Beaverbrooks, and they are out of the office, I get a similar reply. Once I was even replied to with a joke. Brilliant.

And this relaxed ethos goes far beyond a quirky out of office reply. I’ve seen emails sent between shop staff and directors and there is no pretence or stiff management talk, communication flows easily throughout the business. And one director told me he was considering taking his job title off of his business card as they place little importance on the hierarchy and lots of importance on working as a team.

A lot of staff at Beaverbrooks have been there for years and will no doubt continue in their service. This is common with smaller retailers, but to have such a low staff turnover at such as large organisation is truly impressive, and perhaps there are lessons to be learned from the one big happy family mantra that makes Beaverbrooks such an attractive retail jeweller to work for.